beyond the hedgerow

Last week afforded some rain-free moments to busy ourselves re-envisioning the hedgerow at the property's northern limit. Occupying the space were a collection of uninspired perennials planted at the time of the houses' construction, so there was no love lost when it came time to chop 'em down and remove the majority of the roots. And surely our suburban plot transforms into an edible forest garden. To replace the perennials: two suckers from our established Italian prune (plum) tree, two sea buckthorns (male and female; both required for pollination), which are nitrogen-fixing and fruit producing shrubs, and a goji plant. Also planted (in the yard): an orcas pear tree (dwarf), which will facilitate cross pollination with the comice pear planted last season.

rain garden phase 3 & 4

Today marks the near completion of the rain garden. Several days ago the soil mix (compost, existing soil, sand) was back-filled and stirred to an even consistency (as a shovel will allow). Then...planted! Following the instructions provided by our (very) official rain garden literature, different species were located according to their tolerance for standing water in one of three 'zones' determined by varying depths within the garden. Emergents (those plants most tolerant) are planted in zone 1, where water will occasionally pond in times of heavy rainfall. Those less tolerant are planted along the fringes and other, slightly higher levels. Rocks salvaged from excavation are placed at the inflow (where run-off originates in the garden) and outflow (where water is directed). Wood chip mulch is spread to prevent the inflows' potentially erosive effects. All that remains to do is trim the inflow pipe and wait for a substantial rain to determine if everything works as designed.

sun window

Amid sprinkles and sunbreaks, Stephanie and I got the first starts in the ground this afternoon. Earlier in the day I dropped off a 1/2 yard of compost on the plot (now measuring 9'x9'). The roto-tiller was put to use to mix the existing soil with the compost, after which an amendment cocktail of gypsum, limestone, phosphate and greensand was broadcast and then tilled in. Steph rakes the mixed soil to level it out before planting.

A couple of salvaged herb plants (thyme and red sage) fill the north corner, while an assortment of greens (mizuna, oak leaf lettuce, Amish deer tongue lettuce, Bibb lettuce), red cabbage,

lacinato kale and borage line the southern side of the garden. Excavated rocks provide a stepping stone, and more bricks and other stones will flesh out the rest. Tomorrows' weather being amicable as forecasted will allow us to plant more greens and begin planning for raspberry canes (to line the fence) and what to do with so many strawberries.

rain garden phase 1 & 2

Downspouts and run-off management. Not the likeliest source for innovative and ecologically sound pollution control. Or are they? Well, yeah. Most urban environments deal with storm water surges brought on by heavy rains in much the same way: drainage pipes are laid around the foundation footings to collect run-off from the roof and subsequently fed to larger pipes which ultimately drain into larger bodies of water (rivers, the ocean, or in our case The Puget Sound). Along the way that water accumulates spilled motor oil, pesticide and herbicide residues and deposits these pollutants where they poison and otherwise damage fragile marine ecosystems. What is all this getting at, you might be wondering? Enter the rain garden.

Rain gardens are beautifully planted storm water management systems that supersede the common practice of keeping that water out-of-sight-out-of-mind and utilize the resource to nurture native plants. Downspouts are channeled to a designated area that has been excavated to a size and depth calculated by the volume of water falling on the roof and the drainage capacity of the soil. A mix of sand, compost and original soil are filled into the hole, leaving an area for ponding in times of excessive rainfall, and plants situated to be adapted to the different 'zones' of relative saturation when the rain garden is actively filtering water. Rather than all that precipitation flowing directly into the nearest body of water and carrying with it all the attendant pollution, it percolates through the garden and provides an aesthetically pleasing landscape feature.

Ours is well under way: the pipe located, trench and hole dug, and berm built at the garden's outflow. Phase 1: planning, involved determining the site of the garden (at least 10 feet from the foundation) as well as the size. Phase 2: digging. The next phase will involve the mixing of the soil to be filled in the hole and the planting of adapted species. Finally we'll be ready for the rain.

sod off

Yesterday saw the breaking of ground at a friend's new grow space. Tree limbs were removed, stakes pounded, lines strung and, my favorite, sod peeled from the ground. Certainly not a science, but perhaps an applied art. Nah. Let's stick to referring to it what it is, grunt work. Not that this peasant-stock minds much. As I suspected, tree roots run rampant but a few inches below ground. A borrowed roto-tiller will prove a welcome solution. And what to do with so much sod? A question that will be asked many times in the near future, to be sure. For the moment, stack it high and wait until the answer divines itself. Next: roto-till, amend with compost and topsoil, plant!

roll of the dice

Awoke this morning to the sound of rain pattering on the asphalt shingles. At least it sounded like rain. In fact it was a wet mix of slush and rain that closely resembled snow but wasn't. So much for rolling the dice and underestimating mother nature's furious fickleness. Will have to wait and see what the day brings, but at least the precipitation's done with (for now) and the soupy, iced manifestation of an anxious gardener's worst early-spring nightmare will soon vanish. Hopefully, anyway. The ground did not freeze, and with temps hovering well above 32 F there is reason to be optimistic that all is not lost. There are extra seedlings to fill in the ranks, besides. Though it's much too soon to gauge whether the seedlings planted yesterday will tolerate this affront on their vigor so early in life, they have a genetic predisposition for cold-hardiness on their side. God speed little ones.

taking shape

Flying in the face of the weather reports' call for MORE rain, some seeds and seedlings were planted, invasive ivies removed, and backs bent to soreness. The day required sunglasses more than rain jackets. Our new garden space has been partially planted to herbs and cool weather greens, and seeds sown of pea, beets, turnips, radish and rutabaga.Salvaged bricks, concrete steps, stones found while roto-tilling, and a single round leftover from cutting firewood form the steps to navigate the bed without actually stepping on the ground. Additionally they imbue the plot with some much desired design elements and make use of otherwise idle resources. Plenty of room for food; room enough to impart visual (and functional) interest. We'll roll the dice on the weather tomorrow and hope to plant more greens.

and so it grows

Delicious dinner and a new garden to dig. Met with a friend and her family last night to discuss some preliminary plans for their first vegetable garden. The plot is exposed to eastern and southern solar radiation and sheltered from winds by young pines and cedars. Cloud cover continues to challenge my complete assessment of siting but then that is the Maritime Northwest par excellence. Guess it wouldn't hurt to brush up on my maths (geometry) to determine varying light conditions as the sun's position changes relative to the season. List-topper for sure! Initial prospects seem promising, and sticking to adapted varieties should ensure success regardless of other factors not fully realized at this stage.

Momentary vision: an 8' x 8' patch of lettuces and brassicas (kale chips being all the rage these days). Radishes, beets, spinach, mache, herbs and on and on. Utilize any native stones and masonry that can be salvaged on the property for accents and such. A few branches from an overhanging Douglas Fir will be removed to increase sunlight infiltration. The site slopes gradually to the east and south, which should be beneficial for capturing more light (than, for instance, if the site sloped northward). Tree roots may be of issue, but are inevitable in near-climax suburbs (those neighborhoods whose trees planted at the time of home construction are reaching maturity). We'll respond by adding plenty of compost (always a sensible act) and observation. To the drawing board.

mulching

What to do...when the rains tease so sweetly? Mulching seems appropriate. Scott's garden nears its completed phase, and to prevent all those newly added amendments from leaching out of the freshly worked soil, a layer of straw is placed around transplants on all bare earth. As of right now, the starts are just that, starting life, and oh so small and fragile. Until more reliable weather arrives they will put on only moderate growth. Before a canopy of growing green leaves and (the inevitable) weeds do their part to cover the earth, a mulch (leaves, straw, compost, etc.) helps protect from minerals leaching and compaction brought on by falling rain. Unsightly, probably. Utilitarian, most definitely.

Once the garden is more established the mulch can be removed and composted, or left on to reduce evaporation of the soil water. It should be kept in mind, however, that certain garden pests might find a moist bed of mulch the most inviting of homes and perfect for executing late-night binges on your veggies. Tough call.

amendments

To cultivate the garden bed a few inches deeper, a second tilling was undertaken. In all the depth of cultivation is about 6-7." A yard of compost and a yard of topsoil are added to increase organic matter and to ameliorate the clay content of the soil (gypsum also helps with this). Next the amendments are added. These include granulated limestone, phosphate, greensand and gypsum, all broadcast on the surface of the bed and then tilled into the first few inches of the soil. All that remains to do is refine the design drawn out on paper and hope for another dry day to plant.

In the course of tilling, numerous feeder roots from the nearby pine trees were found wending their way only a few inches beneath the surface of the soil. Trees, being advantageous organisms, seek out the most easily found nutrients. As many roots as were found were removed, but always to keep in mind is the fact that our vegetables will be competing with the nearby trees for nutrients as well as light (at certain times of day). We'll try to keep this in mind while choosing where to plant certain varieties more tolerant of shade, and fertilize (with compost) throughout the season based on observations of how the plants are growing and competing.

to till or not to till

Till, and never look back. At least when starting a new garden space. The sod has been removed, and taking advantage of the mild weather and a friend's gracious loan of his roto-tiller, the new growing space is cultivated. To my surprise and delight, the soil seems much more workable than anticipated, i.e. not as laden with heavy clay. We'll still take some steps to loosen the soil a bit by adding some gypsum and topsoil. Weather permitting, tomorrow will see the incorporation of a yard of compost, the mineral amendments and about a yard of topsoil to begin the process of building the soil. When starting out, cultivation seems unavoidable, but the inclusion of simultaneously sown cover crops and regular (yearly) additions of kitchen-scrap compost and green manures, we embark on an experiment in soil building that should reduce the amount of tilling or cultivation required in subsequent seasons. Here goes everything.

ready to plant

As the sun rose surely this morning I steeled myself to prepping the garden space for my first client. Last year's garden, a modest 4' x 8' plot, would grow to become 10' x 10' after a couple of hours well spent slicing and scraping the moss-laden sod. While soil tests are good and fine for agricultural endeavors, on the home scale they aren't particularly pragmatic. Better to observe the vegetation (moss and dandelions) and consider the typical soil profile of our climate (low pH), amend accordingly, and let the veggies live a life of choice.

To begin, a 1/2" layer of compost is added to the lightly cultivated soil, which is spaded to a depth of about 6." Then a cocktail of four organic mineral amendments are added to assist in bringing the soil into a balance for proper vegetable nutrition: greensand, limestone, phosphate, and gypsum. Using the garden weasel the amendments are mixed within the top 2-3." The bed is now ready to fill with transplants.

sod removal...

...is back-breaking, laborious, evil work. But oh so necessary. Waging war on the front lawn filled most of the morning and afternoon today. Warm spring sunshine helps. First the cardboard is removed, then the sod is sliced into manageable sections measuring approximately 2' x 3' using an edging tool. Next a flat shovel is utilized to begin scraping the sod sections and accompanying roots and as little soil as is possible. No easy task, but excess soil can be sifted from the sod sections after its removal. If the sod is kept all in one piece it can (more) easily be rolled as it's being scraped up. The strips are inverted and laid from whence they came so that the majority of the soil can be broken free from the grass roots before returning it to the future vegetable bed. For this task we use a delightfully named tool called a "garden weasel," which is essentially a hand-powered roto-tiller. The next steps are to determine where the sod will be composted and to amend the soil with copious amounts of compost and minerals including limestone, gypsum, greensand, and phosphate. Seeding and transplanting to follow shortly!

propagations

Aside from offering deliverance from the constant stream of traffic and take-off/landing noise permeating my home town, the surrounding greenbelts bestow treasures beyond the visceral. An opportunity to propagate native plants for their eventual inclusion in an edible landscape presents itself. With a simple pair of pruning shears and a pocketful of patience the urban gardener conjures new life.

Cuttings from native edibles (gooseberry, blackcap raspberry, Indian plum, elderberry, salmonberry) are easily made. A section of last season's (new) growth is snipped just above a node (where the new leaves will emerge) and just below a node, leaving on average 3 or 4 nodes on the entire cutting. Most range from 4-6" in length. The cuttings are expediently readied to promote successful rooting: first they are dipped in a powdered rooting hormone, then buried approximately 2/3 of the way in a moist mixture of 1 part peat moss to 1 part perlite. The cuttings are placed in the greenhouse in dappled light (in this case under the planting bench) and moisture is maintained to facilitate rooting. Hopefully within 2 weeks most of the cuttings will show signs of new life in the form of emerging leaves and new roots. These gooseberry cuttings seem pleased with their new situation so far. The cuttings that survive will eventually be potted individually and more than likely will be ready to plant in the ground by next spring.

spring fever

This weekend's respite from drowning rains was a welcome one. And with the equinox quickly approaching (tomorrow), it's about time. Thanks Mother Nature! The season pokes through winter's moldy duff, emerging in budding leaves and tender new growth. Plans for one project are well under way, and another friend's parents have given me permission to plant seeds and starts in their backyard. No shortage of soil work to keep this gardener focused and busy. A quick shot of the next project: a series of 5 raised beds each measuring approximately 3' x 10.' The soil is rich and highly workable at first glance, and should provide ample opportunity to experiment with layout and design. Plans to hatch...

seedling steps

The first set of seedlings are moving up in the world. Time to transplant into a more coherent and spacious intermediary arrangement, the last before they brave the cool spring weather. Seeded flats are scooped out by hand and separated carefully (as little root disturbance as possible behooves the hungry gardener). Spacing is approximate; about 2 inches for each plant will provide ample room until they're planted in the garden. In a 10"x 20" flat that is 50 seedlings. More than your typical urban garden can accommodate, but there's always the opportunity to spread the love to neighbors or else rouge plants not showing vigor. The planting media for the transplants is mostly compost, with some peat and perlite and some added granulated organic fertilizer to induce rapid growth. These coles and greens are hardening off in the greenhouse as they prepare for their next step on the journey. As soon as it stops raining long enough to do a little digging...

art of pruning

A delicate balance of youthful expression and established maturity a well-pruned fruit tree makes. To sharpen my teeth on recent lessons in pruning I got to work on the assorted fruit trees planted around the yard. The trick, as I was taught, is to maintain a productive vegetative cycle while still allowing the tree to have fruiting potential. This means managing the older growth as well as suppressing some of the newer growth, as fruit arises from growth older than one year. As a general rule, 10% of the tree is removed in the pruning process. The tree is also shaped to facilitate ease of harvest and so that it does not become too large to maintain. An art, truly, and one not easily understood even under the tutelage of an experienced orchardist. "When in doubt, cut it out" as Bob would tell us. Observe the trees' growth behavior in the coming season and adjust your future pruning endeavors to suit the habit of the tree.

garden prep

Rains continue to soak the saturated ground. Field (lawn) capacity was reached days ago but still the skies offer no mercy to anxious gardeners. Wait is all I can do, and to busy myself with other projects and plans.

To prepare for the additional garden space that will occupy the front yard, cardboard salvaged from area grocers is laid flat on the existing sod and secured with bricks. A shambled patchwork of urban refuse it appears to passersby, but if it speeds the death of the grass beneath and facilitates easier cultivation when (if) the rains ever subside, it'll be worth the eyesore. Meanwhile seeds continue to sprout and ready themselves for life outside in the big, wet world.

doors open...

...and all we have to do is walk through them. A friend's father has been gracious enough to employ me to install a gardening space in the backyard of his suburban home. The plan as it stands is to create an 8'x8' vegetable patch, plant rhubarb, various adapted berry bushes and a perennial herb garden. To the drawing board and praying rains subside long enough to allow the ground to be workable.

The remnants from last years' garden (1st attempt), a 4'x8' plot that will double in size (and productivity, we will hope). A moss-filled lawn indicates acidic soil (typical Northwest conditions), which will be amended with limestone, gypsum, green sand, phosphate and compost to boost fertility and give the veggies a better shot at expressing their full genetic (and flavor!) potential.

seed flats sown

Spring looms through cold rains but daylight savings is the home gardener's best friend. To busy myself and make it through these winnowing winter days, planting seeds proves a welcome respite. Instead of using 2.5" pots with a few seeds in each (last year's method), I'm testing a new and hopefully more efficient way of cranking out some early spring starts.

The flats (11" by 20") are filled to just below the top edge with a self-assembled mix consisting of 1 part peat moss, 1 part perlite, and 2 parts compost. A pinch of seeds is broadcast over the surface of the media and additional mixture is sprinkled over the flat to ensure the seeds are covered. The flat is kept moist (propagation domes work best) and warm. Germination should follow in a few short days.

In choosing what to plant first, cold-hardiness wins the selection game, and the seedlings sprouted so far include cabbages, chards, kales, mustards, mache and other various greens. In spite of the seasons' reticence to relent on this mucky cold wetness, it's also time to start thinking of tender varieties to begin indoors; i.e. tomatoes and the rest of the solanums. Yum.