compost (like you mean it)

The compost situation at my parents house until yesterday and earlier this afternoon was a rather miserable one: a single bin, rarely turned, not easily accessible, and whose wooden sides themselves were slowly but surely turning into compost. Using some recycled pallets (is there anything they aren't good for?) I constructed a simple three bin system that should be much easier to turn, process, and store ready-made compost until it can be used.

The two larger bins measure 4' square, and are vented to allow air flow. The third bin (for finished compost, measures slightly smaller (approx. 42"). As with most projects I've undertaken in the course of my agricultural experimentation, the prime concern is cost. These bins are held together simply, with drywall screws ($5.49 for 225 screws) and small corner posts (scraps) that the slats are screwed into. Pallets, where you can find them, are free.

To locate the new system, some invasive english ivy was removed (with much zeal) from a hedge near the western edge of their property. The cleared section is leveled so that the bins are likewise resting level. Aesthetics being everything, after all.

The existing bin was emptied: the top layer of fresh yard waste and kitchen scraps is set aside and the processed compost sifted and stored in the third bin. Side note: as uncovered humus (the finished product) will lose nutrients over time, it is best to either use it right away or cover it. All as to be yet decomposed material is added to the first two bins: the larger bin for the freshest, the second for that material which has been at it awhile.

There you have it. The fresh bins are watered to streamline the process by encouraging microbes and bacteria to get to work.

back in action

Met with a college friend last night in Bellingham to assess her potential for an over-wintering garden in the yard of her newly rented abode. Light situation looks pretty amicable, all things considered. Emphasis on greens, roots, and anything else that seems to tolerate our mild Pacific Northwest "winters."

To the drawing board to evaluate space limitations and the (presumably/typically) compacted and clayey soils of our recently glaciated past. Will try to make this a priority as the sooner these buggers can get established, the more chance they'll have of surviving/thriving the cold rains to come.

I am but the gardener. Planting seeds is all I do. Help yourself to some random hiking pictures from earlier in the day.

Hard Frost/Times

Finally got our first frosts since I last posted. The ground has actually been frozen in our back yard for the last little bit. Clear and beautiful days though. An unusually dry December so far. Had a chance to visit with Christian last week and took some pics of his garden to pass along.

Beginning to re-think the location we selected for his garden. It doesn't seem to receive much direct sunlight during the day. This wouldn't normally be a problem in the Pacific Northwest because the typically overcast days diffuse light that would normally not be available to the plants. The past week has been unusually clear though, and downright cold. And it's when the ground stays frozen that the plants are in the most danger. Hopefully the daytime temps will warm a little or at the least the clouds will return for a while (never thought I'd be inviting gray skies...).

Broccoli sure looks good though.

Uprooted

Has it really been something like twenty days since I last posted? Wow. Well a few things have transpired since then:

-Cut down the quinoa stalks and started to dry them in the basement. Noticed some chickadees were making gluttons of themselves on all that free grain so I put a stop to it. Couldn't wait for the frost any longer or there would have been nothing left to harvest.

-Picked the first of some bok choi I planted in August (though I neglected to post about it then). It has performed quite well under cool conditions.

-Decided I'll be moving out of this house at the end of the year so I can begin to get my life in order and stop wasting it as I have been these past 20 months (and longer).

I will continue to post about other horticultural projects I may be working on, though the possibility that I will be living somewhere that allows much opportunity for such things is rather slim.

This has certainly been a valuable endeavor--if for no other reason than documenting a small part of my life as it continues to pass me by-- and it has been worth doing.

Slug Proof

Last week Christian and I went about protecting his fledgling garden from the urban gardeners' perennial nemesis, the slug. Slugs LOVE rain! That makes the maritime northwest a veritable slug paradise. Pair that with the fact that our overwintering plants will only be growing at an almost immeasurable pace due to lower temperatures and light levels (and thus putting out little foliage to replace leaves damaged by said pests), and our immediate attention was required.

Christian's garden is getting pretty meaty and an easy target for would-be pests

Our weapon of choice: a pet-safe, environmentally friendly, naturally derived slug bait called Sluggo. Sluggo's active ingredient is iron phosphate, which is found naturally in soil. The slugs eat the bait, and after ingesting only a little bit, stop eating, wander off, and eventually die (within 3-6 days). The bait, which resembles rice-sized pellets, is spread in a perimeter around the garden to create an effective barrier. Over time the bait dissolves harmlessly into the soil. A new application may be needed every two weeks depending on how wet the winter is and how often the bait is eaten.


Christian spreads the slug bait around the perimeter of the garden

Seed Storage

Once you've set out to collect seed it is imperative to store it properly. Many varieties of seed can be viable for several years after they are collected. Some seeds found in ancient tombs have germinated after being sealed for hundreds and even thousands of years! The key is what I call the holy trifecta of seed storage: dark, dry, and cool.

Seed receptacle candidates: paper envelope, small sealing plastic bag, old film canister

Seed embryos are delicate structures; when subjected to improper storage conditions they quickly lose viability. Light can damage and exacerbate deterioration if the seeds are left in direct sunlight. If the seeds become damp or are not completely dried when stored, they'll likely mold. And last but perhaps most important is to assure storage takes place in a cool environment. A basement, unheated garage, or perhaps even the vegetable drawer in the refrigerator are all possible locations where seed can be kept until it is ready to be planted.

What you store the seed in is also of some importance, though options are many. Old film canisters are ideal, especially if they are black (will not let any light through). With the advent of digital cameras these are increasingly hard to come by, but with some luck maybe found at some one-hour photo labs. Other options include paper envelopes and sealing plastic bags.

After an ideal container and location has been selected, be sure to label the seeds. Include the seed variety and the date collected.

Collecting Seed

The end of the season brings about not just the harvesting of fruits but also seeds from which will grow some of next year's crops. To collect viable seed, we must wait until the seeds are completely ripe. In the case of tomatoes, this means waiting until the fruit is practically rotting off the vine, or perhaps has already fallen to the ground. Beans prove somewhat easier.

I allowed some of the rattlesnake pole beans to mature (providentially, it would seem, because I simply couldn't get around to eating them before they ripened into full seeds) until the pods shriveled and dried on the vine. You will be able to tell that the seeds are ready by touch; gently squeeze the pod and determine that the beans inside are not flaccid or soft. The ripe seed should be firm and relatively hard. The pods can then be picked and brought inside. I place the pods somewhere dry and warm so that any residual moisture evaporates; dampness is the mortal enemy of well-preserved seed.

Once the pods have completely dried out, the seeds can be shucked. Other plants I intend to gather seed from include basil (summer and thai), tomatoes, snap dragons, marigolds, quinoa (mostly to eat, but some for sowing next spring), and texas hummingbird sage.